Food & Drink | THE WAY OF WASHOKU Jul 15, 2001

A journey back to old 'new Japanese cuisine'

This week I saw a program on television that showcased shin-washoku, or "new Japanese cuisine," as the latest restaurant trend. The show visited several eateries where the chef/owners had gone abroad, mostly to America, to work in Japanese restaurants and since come back to ...

Food & Drink | THE WAY OF WASHOKU Jul 8, 2001

The buckwheat starts here

Some of the most enjoyable, satisfying and memorable meals I have had in Japan involve soba (buckwheat). I can still smell the broth of a hot bowl of kake soba I had the winter after the Olympics in Nagano. The best Soba is the ...

Food & Drink | THE WAY OF WASHOKU Jul 1, 2001

I love you, I knead you

Lounging in a cool tatami room with a gentle breeze carrying the billows of mosquito incense and dreaming of downing several plates of freshly handmade udon noodles, one could easily waste away the sixth and seventh moons of summer. The Japanese east of Nagoya ...

Food & Drink | THE WAY OF WASHOKU Jun 24, 2001

Hiyashi somen: the cool slurp of summer

On a hot summer day nothing refreshes like cold, wet noodles. Japan eats a rice-based diet most of the year, but in the summertime, to lighten the hot-weather menu and relieve pressure on dwindling rice storage from the previous fall, the population turns to ...

Food & Drink | THE WAY OF WASHOKU Jun 17, 2001

Savoring rewards of slow food

In addition to just eating a plump one with a bowl of hot rice to improve digestion and settle your stomach, there are four basic condiment staples made with dried salt-preserved Japanese apricots (umeboshi). If you were ahead of the game and pickled your ...

Food & Drink | THE WAY OF WASHOKU Jun 3, 2001

Ume, back in the pink

Get out the salt and pop open the white liqueur — the season for ume is upon us. The diminutive Prunus mume — referred to erroneously as a plum but technically an apricot — has hit the shelves and is available in its preferred ...

Food & Drink | THE WAY OF WASHOKU May 20, 2001

A good reason to hit the sauce

When a friend of mine dragged two other friends from the States to Osaka to eat at the first restaurant I apprenticed at in Japan, they were prepared to pay 10,000 yen for the pleasure of eating the omakase, a several-course menu selected by ...

Food & Drink | THE WAY OF WASHOKU Apr 22, 2001

Taking stock of basics

All great food begins with perfect dashi (stock). Dashi takes time, dashi takes patience and dashi takes effort. But if prepared with care, as taught to me by my mentor, chef Toshikatsu Osako, dashi will take its unselfish place in the all-present background and all ...