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Arakawa River: In search of a bygone 'water city'

Travel | PHOTO ESSAY Dec 10, 2016

Arakawa River: In search of a bygone 'water city'

For much of its history Tokyo was known as city of water. Like Venice or Bangkok, canals were the arteries of commerce, and life was lived in close proximity to rivers and creeks. But that legacy was, for the most part, hidden under concrete ...

Coffee from another age: The last 'kissaten' of Yanesen

Travel | PHOTO ESSAY Oct 22, 2016

Coffee from another age: The last 'kissaten' of Yanesen

Shigeo Ota spends six days a week behind the counter of his cafe, Aroma, watching TV and waiting for customers who rarely come. The cafe is in Komagome, a town in Tokyo's Bunkyo Ward, close the quiet neighborhoods of Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi (collectively ...

Yuasa: The salty, fermented heart of Japan

Travel | PHOTO ESSAY Jul 9, 2016

Yuasa: The salty, fermented heart of Japan

Craftsmen from two regional factories — one makes miso; the other, shoyu — ponder the future of their little town and its centuries-old traditions

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